Sunday, January 18, 2009

New Zealand Travel Diary Part IV

The next couple of days saw us heading south-east, ending up on the Otago Peninsula just east of the city of Dunedin. On the way we stopped to see the wondrous Moeraki Boulders. They lie on a beach at the tide line, and their creation process dates back sixty million years, when they were part of the sea bed. When the coast lines eroded they popped out and that’s how you get to see them now. They reminded me of the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland in that both look completely manmade but are not.

Further south, the road from Dunedin onto the Otago Peninsula snakes along on the level ground, hugging the coast line very closely, which can be a bit dizzying, but quite breathtaking as well.
We had hoped to be able to visit an albatross colony, but unfortunately the birds were nesting that week, and all tours were off. Oh well. We ended up spending a lovely chilled-out shopping day in Dunedin town, which has the most beautiful train station I have ever seen. The name of Dunedin comes from the Gaelic name for Edinburgh, and the Scottish influence is unmistakable – even if we did end up having lunch in an Irish pub called Craic…

From Dunedin we headed west, towards the Fiordlands region. Given the weather in this area, we were trying to decide whether it would be worth our while going up to Milford Sound or not, or if we would be better off spending more time somewhere else. We ended up going for it. The Fiordlands is the 2nd rainiest area in the world – 6 m per year on average.

There are many fiords in the Fiordlands, but only two of them are currently accessible, and only one of them by proper road (Milford Sound – the other one is Doubtful Sound). The road goes from Te Anau for 2,5 hours along some of the most stunning scenery – which says a lot, this being New Zealand. This mountain looks to me like someone put flour on top and then blew on it.
In Te Anau, we had booked ourselves on a 1,5 hour cruise of Milford Sound, which was really great, although, once you got out further into the fiord, the wind picked up considerably. The landscape was majestic, sort of how I imagine the Norwegian fiords, just without all the lush vegetation. Waterfalls, waterfalls, waterfalls everywhere. We did see some blue sky in between the light showers, so our weather luck did not desert us. Yay!


We headed straight back towards Te Anau after we got off the boat, and ended up camping at Deer Flats halfway, at a gorgeous location in a little forest near the Eglinton River. But I think this is a story best continued in Part V……

Friday, January 09, 2009

New Zealand Travel Diary Part III

Okay, so this is not going to be a wordy post, because I want to give the pictures room to speak.

So, accompanied by the seemingly neverending line of the Southern Alps, we headed deeper into the heart of the South Island. Then we turned a corner and I had to pinch myself. This is approximately what we saw (this is obviously taken after we had left the camper and gone down to the shore). And no, I didn’t edit this in any way, the water is like that. The intense colour is due to light-reflecting micro-organisms or something along those lines in the water.

From Lake Tekapo we went along the turquoise canal that connects Lake Tekapo and Lake Pukaki. I think it’s part of some hydro-electric scheme or something, which is very cool. We were heading to a camping spot on the eastern shore of Lake Pukaki. As the journey progressed, we could see part of Aoraki Mount Cook appear to our right, across the canal. It was shrouded in cloud, but that cleared later on and remained completely clear. It’s quite a lovely mountain, and I took many many MANY pictures of it.

Aoraki is the Maori name, and the combination of the two names is increasingly used for the mountain. When we came upon the lake we turned right along the shore. Pukaki has the exact same very intense turquoise colour as Tekapo, but here there were more rocks and less flowers. Not that it wasn’t absolutely stunning! I think Lake Pukaki/Aoraki Mount Cook is probably my favourite place of all that we went to.

We found the camping spot after only one false turn, which turned out to actually just be a wee detour. It was breathtaking. We were sheltered by a few trees (mostly birch, and a couple eucalyptus), and had an open view of the lake and mountains. Below us was a very rocky (I guess I could call it bouldery) beach, behind us evergreen trees. We had dinner outside, as per usual, with lake-cooled lovely Mac’s Sassy Red brew.

The sunset needs no further words.....

And, I got up in the middle of the night and sat for a bit on the moonlit shore – and took a couple of pictures of the moon above. The big boulder I sat on, was a fast favorite because it had little steps and holds seemingly carved into it, so it made a great seat for more than one person.

Then of course, I got up early too, being WAY to excited by the beauty of it all to sleep properly, and sat on the big boulder to enjoy the sunrise (this picture is from before sunrise).